Capanna Margherita Hut 4.554 mt - Gnifetti Peak

From Mantova hut climb up the glacier up to the Gnifetti hut. You go around it on the right on not steep slopes and you reach a flat area with any crevasse (pay attention during the hottest hours). You continue across the whole plateau towards the southwestern edge of the Pyramid Vincent. You climb up the Lys glacier first diagonally on the left, along a steep slope, than you continue on more moderate slopes, always not too far from the steep slopes of the Pyramid Vincent, sometimes you will follow the fixed course between large and treacherous crevasses. After a series of irregular gradients (30 ° / 35 °) you reach the snowy valley below the Balmenhorn. You leave it on the right and you continue along the wide track that leads to the Colle del Lys at 4248 meters (2,30-3 hours).

After the wide snowy plateau, the track goes down in the middle through the north hillside of the Parrot’s Peak, up to reach a valley below the Sesia Pass (4299 m). Here you begin the climb diagonally under the Gnifetti Peak and the head of the Grenzgletscher (ignoring any track that goes down on the left to the Monte Rosa Hütte) up to reach the less steep slopes leading to the Gnifetti Pass (4454 m). From the pass, you turn right, cross a short plateau and a steep slope that goes up on the west slope of the Gnifetti Peak up to the top and the Regina Margherita hut (1,30-2 hours).
You go down through the same way of the ascent.

Difficulty: medium (limiting gradient: 35°)
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