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Eastern Lyskamm 4.527 mt.

Eastern Lyskamm 4.527 mt. (East Ridge- usual way)

From Mantova hut climb up the glacier up to the Gnifetti hut (3647 m). You go around it on the right on not steep slopes and you reach a flat area with any crevasse (pay attention during the hottest hours). You climb up the Lys glacier first diagonally on the left, along a steep slope, than you continue on more moderate slopes, another area with large and treacherous crevasses, pointing to the Lys Pass and leaving the Balmenhorn on the right.
When you see the Pass (4151 m), you leave on the right the large track towards Gnifetti Peak and you reach the col at the base of the east ridge. (2 -2.30 hours]
If ending crevasse allows it, you start immediately to climb along the steep ridge (45 °), or you must climb across the south wall rising diagonally (some delicate passages, possibility of icy stretch, some screws could be useful) until you reach the ridge, always exposed and sharp, before the Discovery’s top (4335 m). Here the ridge become more level, but you must pay attention to the huge ledges that stick out southwards, until you reach the last steep part of the ridge. This is a steep slope (45 °) quite open, where the exposure isn’t no longer the same of the initial part, but where you must always pay attention to any ledges (always better to stay towards the north wall) and any icy stretches. Finally, after connection of the southern ridge (Sella’s ridge) on the left, some short and easy passages on the rock bring you to the top. (3 - 3.30 hours]
To go down through the most steep and icy stretches you can use some other screws to be more safety. Pay attention to the consistency of the snow on the top (especially in warm weather when it  melts very quickly) and to the possibility of ice at the bottom.

Diffculty: Hard
Difference of level: 750 m
Map on Google Maps

In the spot light
SUMMER SEASON 2017
from 17 JUNE to 10 SEPTEMBER 2017

Dates are subject to change based on the opening of the lifts



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Informations and contacts
Mantova Hut
Garstelet, Gressoney-La-Trinité
11020 - Aosta Valley - Italy
Email: info@rifugiomantova.it
Booking: on line form


Phone: +39 0163 78150